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Well, i have been having a little trouble for some time now. The car was running fine, but the idle speed started dropping, and low end revs are not smooth. So i adjusted my Weber DGV idle speed up, which was a little too high for me. But as is turns out, it hasn't been staying where i want it to well, which is a little under 1000 cause any higher than that makes getting into first gear noisy.
Today, the car wouldn't start for the longest time, but eventually i got lucky. now i can't seem to get it to idle even close to where i want it. messing with the idle screw (which simply sets the throttle open) and another screw (which has a spring behind it and goes into the lower end of the carb) I got it back around where i wanted it.
So i shut the car off and it dieseled/run-on whatever. and a big puff of blue smoke puffed out the K&N air filter.... I'm sure it will start again, but please say it has something to do with the carbs, or the vacuum advance, or even the ignition, cause i know NOTHING about timing. i don't have a weber manual so please say even the stupidest things cause i am worried.
Do you have details of the jet sizes in the carb? Is the K&N filter a new addition, likewise is the carb a new addition. Is the ignition contact breaker or something else?
Well i took out the air filter and used a choke & carb cleaner, then i reset the mixture screw. It's really odd now, when I idle when coming out of gear it stays around 1500 rpm, but if i am at that idle and hit the gas it comes down to where i set it about 900-1000. And it's running a lot more smoothly.
When a Weber starts to misbehave in any way, I'd assume one or more jets are blocked, or partially blocked. I'd check the idle jet in your case. The smallest pieces of cr*p can affect operation significantly.
You should have to adjust idling/mixture/vol etc. only rarely.
Saul I recently installed a Crane electronic ign. While doing so I disassembled the distr. and found a lot of dirt and debris. This can make the mech. advance stick and not return to the idle position. That may your problem; sometimes it returns and other times it doesn't. Cleaning the distr. is well worth your time and isn't very hard to do.
Thanks that's a big help. i could never keep up with the maintenance involved with SU's, and fortunately the PO put in an elec. ignition. i really didn't want to get into timing, from what I understand that is different for every car.
It is true that the exact, perfect timing varies for each car. It is also true that the factory specified timing, while not perfect, works quite well for most of us. I think you are getting confused here and letting it scare you when you should not. Factory base timing is a good, general compromise that allows the engine to run safely and well. Timing to the particular engine is a form of "super tuning" which may result in slight performance gains. It does require some experimentation. Learn to time your car to factory spec and you will have a base point for future reference. You will know it is correct. You can then play with the timing as experience and confidence grows. You have owned a Midget for over a year. That means you have done far more complex things than loosening a single bolt and pointing a timing light at a rotating pulley, then tightening the bolt and re-checking. Don't let it buffalo you, you can do it.