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Does anyone know the best way to apply waxoyl to a Midget
are there any particlar areas such as the sills etc. that
should be concentrated on? Do you really have to drill
holes in the body work to get inside the box sections, and
how do you know where its going etc.?
Is it just a case of applying one coat on top of another or
do you remove the orrible stuff first and if so how?
Sorry for so many questions!!!!!
Cheers for any answers(and to previous questions)
My Midget carries an extra cwt (hundred-weight) of Waxoyl (!), first
applied in 1977 ('73 car); I'm on original sills etc. - no welding has
been done on my car at all !!
I'd clean off old underseal, mud, crud, whatever with a plastic scraper.
I think you can get to all places with existing access holes. Here are
the ones I can remember ...
Front wings, inner wings - clearly easy !
Triangular chassis bit in arch - easy !
I think I pumped Waxoyl down the chassis by inserting a plastic tube in
a hole which was near the front somewhere.
A posts - I removed on screw from the upper and lower hinges, and applied
Waxoyl via a plastic tube. I also sprayed the A-post area around the hinges
- this frequently rusts at the lower join with the sill. Looks a mess,
but who cares ...
Front box section - toeboard - access through a grommet on the userside
of the car - middle of the floorpan, at the front.
Sills - several entry points here : jacking point(s); also you'll find
access via grommets from the inside at the front (and I think also rear)
at floor level (remove carpets and trim first). Use a mixture of direct
spray and a plastic tube inserted along the sill.
Leading edge of rear wings - get at these by removing the trim by the side
of each seat.
Rear passanger compartment box section - they are two large inspection
holes, just inboard of the front leaf-spring hanger - easy !
Doors - remove trim.
Boot - I'd Waxoyl along the wheelarches, and the rear boot seam. I managed
to get into the top-hat section by the arch by inserting a plastic tube
both ways.
My plastic tube has a nail in the end which allows the Waxoyl to spay around
'randomly'. I tend to move the tube around in sections I can't easily inspect,
and hope for the best. E.g. I insert the tube down the length of the sill,
and turn on the spray and pull tube out at the same time.
I apply Waxoly on top of existing Waxoly. I warm it first, and dilute further
with parafin to give a spray - stops the applicator getting blocked as
well. I re-apply every 2 years or so.
I found the Waxoyl supplied pumps/applicators to be poor,
if you have a supply of compressed air the kit supply
by Eastwood for applying Waxoyl or similar is excellent,
especially for the Spridget where it is mostly unnecessary
to drill any holes to inject.
Extra: I try and ensure that the Waxoyl reaches the
top of the fuel tank.